Winding roads and a trusty ride: An adventurous loop around the Cabot Trail

We didn’t come for the lobster boats. But we found them anyway — out on the water from early morning to afternoon, trolling along the coast and checking traps. It became part of the backdrop to our trip — constant, quiet and quintessentially East Coast.

My husband Rob and I have always loved road trip adventures. There’s something about setting your own pace, making unplanned stops and finding the best views from the driver’s seat. This was our fourth time around the Cabot Trail — a 298-kilometre loop around Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia — but our first in spring.

We drove it west to east, saving some of the most dramatic scenery — and tightest curves — for the second half. The road can be steep, narrow and twisty, but our 2025 Mitsubishi Outlander GT handled it all smoothly. On wet stretches and gravel climbs, Super All-Wheel Control and Gravel Mode, in particular, helped us stay steady and in control. Even on some of the more challenging sections, we never felt like we had to worry about what the road might throw at us.

The drive from Ontario had already shown off the Outlander’s comfort: sculpted seats with plenty of adjustment options, a remarkably quiet cabin and ventilated front seats that made all those highway hours feel relaxing instead of exhausting.

Spring on the Cabot Trail brought cooler weather, fewer tourists and a quieter feel overall. A few places were still closed for the season, but we didn’t mind. We were happy to return to favourite spots — and the trade-off for fewer crowds and more lobster boats was well worth it.

Dinner at The Arduaine, the Keltic’s onsite restaurant, was just what we needed after a long day of driving: mussels, halibut and steak. Afterwards, we wandered into the lounge and discovered Cape Breton multi-instrumentalist musician Nathan Bishop MacDonald playing live. He moved between guitar, fiddle, harmonica, drum and recorder — the kind of solo set that fills a room without trying too hard. It had that East Coast vibe: relaxed, foot-tapping and a little like being at a kitchen party with strangers who feel like friends. It was a proper maritime welcome.

We took a detour to Meat Cove — a remote side trip that’s worth the effort. The road narrows and climbs as you go, with steep hills and unpaved stretches. We made good use of the Outlander’s Super All-Wheel Control and switched into Gravel Mode and let it take care of the terrain. On the steeper sections, we used Hill Descent Control and it made a noticeable difference — no sudden jolts, no sliding, just smooth, steady control down the sharp drops. It gave us the confidence to keep going and enjoy the view instead of worrying about the road.

Later that afternoon, we returned to the Keltic Lodge and hiked the Middle Head Trail. Nestled inside Cape Breton Highlands National Park, the trail follows a narrow peninsula with ocean views on both sides. Seabirds passed overhead and more lobster boats moved through the water below.

That night, we had a second supper at The Arduaine, scoring a seat by the water. We both ordered the haddock, taking the advice of MacDonald, the musician we met the night before to “always try the pan-fried haddock on the East Coast. It never disappoints.” He was right.

Between hikes, we listened to music and podcasts on the Outlander’s Dynamic Sound Yamaha Audio System, which sounds more like a home audio system than anything we’d expect in a vehicle. The cabin was quiet, even at higher speeds, and the oversized sunroof helped keep us connected to the outdoors, even during the longer stretches on the road.

As we made our way towards Pleasant Bay and ultimately Chéticamp, we made a stop at Tartans and Treasures in Dingwall, where I found my family tartan. A small moment, but a meaningful one.

Chéticamp is a charming village full of Acadian pride — with rug hooking studios, music and a busy working wharf. We stayed at the Ocean View Motel and Chalet and had dinner at Le Gabriel: mussels, scallops, sole and (yes) more haddock. Our chalet lived up to its name, and after a salty breeze-filled walk to the shore, we fell asleep fast.

As we crossed the Canso Causeway and left Cape Breton behind, we weren't ready for the trip to end. There’s something about driving the Cabot Trail — the sheer natural beauty, the small communities that welcome you in, the mix of wild and warm — that leaves a lasting impression.

The Mitsubishi Outlander was a perfect fit for this kind of trip. Safe, comfortable and ready for whatever the road handed us. It didn’t just get us from one stop to the next — it let us enjoy the space in between.